Description of Goodwin Sands
The Goodwin Sands are a notorious stretch of sands just off the coast of Kent in the English Channel. Submerged at high tides, with areas being exposed and drying sufficiently for a man to walk on at low tides, they present a particular challenge to shipping especially given their unfortunate location… at the narrowest part of the busiest shipping channel in the world.
This article is copyright UK Shore 2008 (uk-shore.com)
Image: The Goodwin Sands, reproduced under Project Gutenberg License
The Goodwin Sands are around four miles offshore, beginning near Kingsdown, Kent and ending around Pegwell Bay, just south of Ramsgate, a total length of around nine miles. The channel between the coast and the sands is known as the Downs, and although the sands present a grave danger to shipping, their position has also provided protection and thus the Downs and Goodwin Sands, and the protective Harbour at Ramsgate made this area historically important. In fact it may be true to say that over the past 1000 years, this stretch of the English Channel can be considered historically the most important stretch of water in the world.
History
The geological history of the Goodwin Sands is disputed; some believing it was previously an island which became swamped by sediment and rising sea levels, others that is simply an accumulation of sediment swept into place by the English Channel funnelling back and forth through the narrow straits of Dover. It is true that the nearby Thanet area was in fact an island back in Roman times (hence the full title; Isle of Thanet) and this may lead people to believe the Goodwin Sands are of a similar nature. However the few attempts at surveying the Sands by drilling have not shown any evidence of soil or organic matter which would suggest an island existed. It is more likely that the Sands are simply an accumulation of sediment on a predominantly solid chalk base.
Since the first recorded shipwreck in the Goodwin Sands area dating back to 1298, the maritime history is one of enormous loss of life and shipping. Ships, the crew and passengers that become stranded on the sands were often facing a terrible fate. Typically a ship would break its back as the tide changed, survivors may have been able to clamber onto the sands as the tide receded, and light fires and attempt to attract the attention of the Boatsmen of Deal and Kingsdown, or the lifeboats in later eras. If no help was forthcoming then within hours the tide would return, the sands would turn into lethal quicksand, and ships and survivors would be engulfed. Many ships were simply swallowed whole within a few days.
There are over 1000 recorded shipwrecks, and it is likely that the true toll may be more like 2000-3000 ships lost.
Notable Wrecks
The first documented wreck in the Goodwin Sands was in 1298, when a ship (name not known) returning from Flanders was lost “near Sandwich”.
Many more were to follow, one wreck of note was the HM Frigate Sedgmore, a 50 gun ship which was stranded near South Foreland in 1689. It was reportedly carrying over £200,000 in bullion, a vast sum in those times. No bullion was actually found or recovered, but it would be true to say that there will be many other ships carrying precious cargo which are still waiting discovery in the Sands, although they are likely to stay there for many years, maybe millennia.
This article is copyright UK Shore 2008 (uk-shore.com)
The greatest single event causing loss of life occurred with the Great Storm of 1703. Many warships had taken refuge in the Downs, and Ramsgate harbour to ride out the storm, but after an initial lull the storm returned with a vengeance. Daniel Defoe’s account of the storm (“The Storm” – republished in 2003 to mark the 300 year anniversary of the event) is the principle document covering this event, and it tells the story of 13 Man ‘o War lost, amongst many others, and over 2000 sailors. Included in the toll were:
- Northumberland, 3rd rate Man o’ War, with 70 guns and 253 men. No survivors.
- Mary, 4th rate, 272 men and the Admiral lost. One survivor.
- Stirling Castle, 3rd rate Man o’ War, with 70 guns and 349 men. 70 survivors.
- Restoration, 70 guns, all 386 crew lost.
The sole survivor from the Mary, Thomas Atkins, had an almost unbelievable escape. He was thrown from the deck of the Mary as it floundered, a large wave then throwing him onto the deck of the Stirling Castle. As the Stirling Castle became wrecked, he was again thrown into waves but again had a huge slice of luck as he was washed into the only boat to be broken adrift from the Stirling Castle. He eventually beached on the Kent coast and survived despite suffering from exposure.
The Stirling Castle has actually been located in recent years, and had been well protected by its sandy grave, but sadly is deteriorating now. See the Wessex Archaeology Coastal and Marine blog for photos of the wreck.
Other notable wrecks include the SS Violet, which was the first steamship to be claimed by the Sands in 1857. In more recent times, the story of the German U-boat U48 is notable as it is one of several wrecks that have re-emerged from the sands for short periods of time before being re-swallowed. The U48 was caught on the surface charging its batteries during World War I. It was shelled by several ships, and chased into the Goodwin Sands, where its crew were forced to surrender. It was then of course swallowed by the sands, where it lay hidden except for a brief reappearance in 1921, and then unexpectedly again in 1973.
Two wrecks, both in 1946, were in fact sister ships; The Luray Victory (9000 tons) ran aground in January, and then the North Eastern Victory broke in two on the sands the following winter. They were notable because they did not become fully swallowed like so many other ships; possibly they were positioned on the chalk base. In any case the masts of the ships were still visible as late as the 1990’s.
The Boatsmen
A history of the Goodwin Sands would not be complete without telling the story of the Boatsmen of Walmer, Deal and Kingsdown. These men were the centre of an industry along this stretch of coast, saving lives, but perhaps more importantly to them; earning a living from the salvage of wrecked shipping. The ‘industry’ had up to 1000 men involved at any one time over the centuries, and at the first sign of a wreck dozens of boats would race to be the first to board a wreck and hopefully claim salvage rights. There were four rival groups; Kingsdown, Walmer Road, Deal South End, and Deal North End. The rivalry between the two Deal groups in particular could be described as bitter.
Saving lives – The lightships and lifeboats
Before the 19th century, there had been talk of setting about beacons, and creating official lifeboats, but it wasn’t until 1852 that the first lifeboat was launched, the Northumberland operating from Ramsgate. In 1857, a further boat the “Royal Thames Yacht Club” was based in Walmer, and by 1865 there were four lifeboats.
Image: The Boom of a Distant Gun, reproduced under Project Gutenberg License from an original photograph by W.H.Franklin
The first lightship was positioned at North Sand Head in 1795, and another at the Gull Stream in 1809. The final two lightships were added at South Sand Head in 1832, and at East Goodwin in 1874. The lightships were positioned to warn shipping of the danger, but also to alert the lifeboats when a ship became stranded. The lightships are not themselves without tragedy, for example in 1954 the South Sand lightship was wrecked and all seven crew lost, the only survivor being a researcher. There is currently only one lightship in operation, at East Goodwin, the others being replaced by automated beacons.
Events on the Goodwin Sands
At low tide, the sands are firm enough to stand on and so a number of events have taken place on the Sands over the years. In recent times, probably the most famous events are the cricket matches played on the sands. The Goodwin Sands Potholing Club were able to make a number of visits when the cross-channel hovercraft were operating from Dover, this providing the ideal charter craft! The club also paid a visit this year (2008) by helicopter.
Modern navigation
The Goodwin Sands are somewhat safer in modern times particularly with the advent of GPS, and detailed mapping of The Channel. The charts on the Visit My Harbour website are well worth a look to get a feel for the relative depths of the sea floor in this area.
References
Shipwrecks of the Goodwin Sands, Richard & Bridget Larn (Meresborough)
Shipwrecks of Great Britain and Ireland, Richard Larn
Heroes of the Goodwin Sands, Rev. Thomas Stanley Treanor, M.A. (The Religious Tract Society 1904). Illustrated edition now available from Amazon.
Storm victims remembered, BBC News website, as retrieved 23th May 2008
Related Posts
Tags: Goodwin Sands, Shipwrecks, Stirling Castle
June 24th, 2008 at 5:00 pm
I have recently left the RN after 36 years service, my early service being in Chatham. One of my abiding memories of pubs in the area was the print of the Heroes of the Goodwin Sands. One version of which, also known as the Boom of a Distant Gun appears above. The other version had the coxswains dressed in oil skins and wearing cork life jackets.
I am very keen to get hold of a copy of either, or both prints. Unfortunately I have drawn a blank so far and would appreciate any advice on where I can get copies.
Many Thanks.
Bob Williams
June 24th, 2008 at 8:10 pm
Hi Bob,
Sorry, I couldn’t track them down as prints either.
perhaps you could try contacting Julies Antique Prints:
http://stores.ebay.com/JULIES-ANTIQUE-PRINTS_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfclZ3QQfsubZQ2d33QQftidZ2QQtZkm
or here:
http://www.ssplprints.com/printdetails2.php?imgnum=108566
or perhaps the East Kent Maritime Trust?
http://www.ekmt.fogonline.co.uk/
I sourced the images from the eBook version of Heroes of the Goodwin Sands.
See:
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/24685/24685-h/24685-h.htm
July 31st, 2008 at 6:55 pm
My father told me the stories about playing cricket out on the Goodwin Sands, and how when the tide turned you had to get off there PDQ before they turned into quicksand and swallowed you up forever.
That was enough to put me off ever wanting to venture out there. I would assume there is quite a lot of valuable stuff in those sands if it was ever given up.
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September 3rd, 2008 at 5:39 pm
3rd Sept 2008
hello
I have just obtained a print of the boom of the distant gun
it is very old and I will be getting it reframed. It is the copy with the
Coxswains in oilskins. Size approx 28 x 22 inches
however I may be able to get a copy made if you are
still interested.
telephone number 01395 278821
September 10th, 2008 at 4:29 pm
Hello,
The picture of the distant gun. The man on the left of the picture is
my gg grandfather James Laming.
l have only a postcard of them and a picture handed down through the
family.
September 14th, 2008 at 8:58 pm
hello Jenny
I have now had A4 size photograph taken for printing
will also get larger size made.
would you like a copy ?
Tom
September 17th, 2008 at 8:55 pm
Hi Tom,
Thanks for your reply will ring you.
Regards Jennifer
September 23rd, 2008 at 5:03 pm
Hi Jenny,
I was taken there by my grandparents years ago , and still have a picture but was told spooky stories.
Thanks for sharing
Monica
January 27th, 2009 at 11:45 am
Hi,
I was there only once when I was just a kid. I don’t have many memories of that time, but I do remember the sands. I think there’s just something special about this place.
February 16th, 2009 at 1:07 am
Hello,
I was told by my mother who was born in 1895 that her father perished on the sands when she was about 1 year old (1896.) Does anyone know the name of that ship?
Annie
February 16th, 2009 at 9:43 am
Hi Annie, Give me a few days and I’ll see what I can find out. There was likely more than one wreck in that year though – do you have any more details?
February 17th, 2009 at 10:28 pm
@Annie – there were a number of wrecks in 1896/1897. I have listed them below, but if you have any further info then that would help.
1896 – Tempter (27th March, Downs), Flamingo (7th May, Goodwin Sands)
1897 – Friendship (1st April, Deal), Unidentified (Goodwin Sands)
(Source: Shipwrecks of the Goodwin Sands, Richard & Bridget Larn)
February 18th, 2009 at 8:52 pm
Hi Admin,
Thank you so much for checking for me. Unfortunately, that was all of the information my mother gave. The only other relatives that may know was my uncles family, (he was her eldest brother and lived in Sydney, Aust. and was superintendent of the Royal Navel House in the early 1900’s, his name was Jack (or John) Partridge, I am trying to find out more about him and his family. Thanks again, Annie
March 1st, 2009 at 6:33 pm
My mother remembers that when she was a child one of the lightships broke loose and the men were trapped for some time. The worry was that while the boa twas water tight was it also air tight. Do you know of any articles on this or even the date? It would be the ‘50,s
Thank you
March 1st, 2009 at 8:37 pm
Hi Mary,
The incident you are presumably referring to is the loss of the South Sand lightship on 28th November 1954 when she was detached from her moorings in a severe storm. Sadly the entire crew of seven were drowned in this disaster, the only survivor being a Ministry of Agriculture scientist who miraculously survived by clinging to the outside of the overturned hull for several hours until rescued by helicopter the following morning. With this info, you should be able to find online articles, I remember reading a book which had a very detailed account but cannot remember which book it was – I will post another comment if I come across it again…
March 2nd, 2009 at 4:35 pm
Hi Admin
I have just recently learned that my Great Uncle Edward Cowie went to sea as a lad and drowned on the Goodwin Sands. I have no idea what Ship he was on. Do you know where I can find these details out
Thanks Shelley
March 2nd, 2009 at 4:52 pm
Hi Shelley,
If you know the approximate year then I could narrow it down. Kent libraries have copies of Shipwrecks of the Goodwin Sands (Richard & Bridget Larn) which is always my starting point for any research. You can also buy the book online at Amazon.
March 2nd, 2009 at 7:46 pm
Hi Admin
Thanks for your reponse and advice, Edward was born 1871 Kirton Suffolk he was on the 1881 census but not on the 1891 so I guess between those years. In the meantime will look up the book you Suggested.
Thanks Shelley
March 10th, 2009 at 11:02 am
I am researching my family history. My great great great grandfather William Rogers GRIGG born 1797 in Deal. He is listed in the 1861 census as a Pilot. He died in 1878. His son William King GRIGG born 1822 and died 1871 was a master of one of the Deal pilot cutters. I cannot find any information about them. I was wondering if you may be able to assist with anything at all about pilots as they spent their working lives negoiating the infamous Goodwin Sands. Thankyou, Patrick Stokes.
March 10th, 2009 at 12:28 pm
Hi Patrick,
Try contacting the Deal Maritime Museum.
If you live in Kent then the local studies section in Dover or Deal libraries would also be a good starting point. My initial research has found this book which might be of interest and may have some content relating to the late 1800’s:
The Journal of William Stanton, Pilot of Deal – William Stanton (Publisher: Simpkin Marshall 1929).
March 22nd, 2009 at 4:12 pm
Hi,
My Grandmother always told me a tale of my Great Grandmother’s brother who was supposed to have been lost on the Goodwin Sands. I believe his name was Firth.
The story she told was that she was asleep and she was ‘visited’ by her brother holding a hurricane lantern and dripping wet. She admonished him for dripping on the carpet and he vanished. Next day, they received a telegram stating that he had perished.
Old family lore, but I wonder if there is any truth.
Hopefully someone would be able to assist.
Thank you
Donna
March 22nd, 2009 at 4:16 pm
Hi,
Sorry,
Probably Blackett surname… going back generations on maternal side is more difficult.
D
March 23rd, 2009 at 12:26 pm
Hi Donna,
Interesting story. I haven’t any information to hand which would help, might be worth contacting Deal Maritime Museum (see link in 10th March comment).
April 5th, 2009 at 6:52 pm
This post reminds me of the story Moonfleet. I believe it was set in the same area you write about – think it was Dorset.
Just looking round your site. Like your panoramas. There is a site called 360 Cities you can make some coin on with panoramas. Think they sell for £30 a pop.
Davids latest blog post..Free Fluid WordPress Themes and CSS Templates
May 21st, 2009 at 9:47 pm
I was just looking at the previous comments left by some of you i was particularly interested in jenny Lamings comment.
My Father has an original copy of the picture i know this to be true as he was asked by the local museum to let them have it he declined i have seen the picture for myself.
James was the coxswain on the left he served with a man called jaarvit arnold whom for his contribution its said there is a road in the village named after him. OUR relative JAMES or william birch i think he was known, was awarded a medal and my father has this also.
Jenny if you would like to possibly chat please feel free to contact me mrstripe@hotmail.com
July 13th, 2009 at 9:33 pm
I wonder if anyone knows of anyone who actually worked on a lightship in the channel? I am a teacher in Kent and very interested in researching the light ships and their stories. Stories local children would be interested to hear/read about. If anyone is interested, I’d appreciate you getting in touch. Many thanks.
July 14th, 2009 at 3:51 pm
Hi Amanda,
Give the Deal Maritime Museum a try: http://home.freeuk.net/deal-museum/
August 30th, 2009 at 11:12 am
I found this absolutely fascinating as Deal is amost my second home with lots of relatives living there over the years. I rememeber in the late fifties an sixties being able to see lots of ship mast,s on the horizon Spielberg could make a good film about the Sands I bet. I love this part of the coast so historic thanks again John Feehan
September 26th, 2009 at 9:27 pm
DEMON SANDS…..
Survivors few, their tale to tell
Once the jaws of treachery strike
From waters angry, waters calm
The mighty Goodwins rise ghostlike
Damned Clippers moonlit silhouette
Submits to maritime etiquette…….
October 4th, 2009 at 9:38 pm
There are some good videos on youtube showing hovercraft charter trips to the goodwin sands. Since the hovercraft stopped service in August 2000 it has been more difficult to get to the sands of course.
November 9th, 2009 at 11:28 am
Trying to find information on the incident between the Walmer lifeboat and the sailing ship Carnmoney Oct 1899.
December 12th, 2009 at 9:16 pm
DEMON SANDS…….
Patiently two monsters lurk
Beneath a watery camouflage
Graveyard Goodwins north and south
To wreak menace and sabotage
By merchant men in bitter rage
Long cursed throughout the shipping age…..
February 26th, 2010 at 2:19 pm
Best of luck with the blog, I enjoyed finding your post today.
February 26th, 2010 at 2:45 pm
Thanks very much, I see Birkhill Castle is near the coast, I’ll add it to the Fife attractions page in the near future.
February 27th, 2010 at 10:25 pm
DEMON SANDS……
Keeper of a thousand ships
Gathered in from tempest storm
Swallowed whole, an English fleet
Their quicksand ritual to perform
Chainless anchor, cast adrift
Ensnared by sinister Goodwin shift.
March 2nd, 2010 at 11:01 pm
Hi John Byrne,
Looking forward to the next instalment!
March 4th, 2010 at 11:27 am
GOODWIN GAUNTLET…..
Old merchant ship the nervous guest
English channel, unruly host
Thirty feet from trough to crest
Around force twelve her engines roast.
Encased within a salty crust
Unseaworthy antiquity
Six thousand tons of finest rust
Convenience flagged iniquity.
to be continued….